Let Them Talk: KENZO FW14'

MYSTERIOSO

"DAVID LYNCH HAS PROVEN TO BE ONE OF THE MOST INTERESTING AND INSIGHTFUL DIRECTORS, ARTISTS AND MUSICIANS OF OUR TIME. HIS IMAGINATION AND INGENUITY CAN STIMULATE FORGOTTON EMOTIONS THROUGH HIS CANNY USE OF WHATEVER MEDIUM HE CHOOSES.

FOLLOWING OUR MEN’S AND PRE-FALL COLLECTIONS EARLIER THIS YEAR, THE KENZO WOMEN’S FALL-WINTER 2014 COLLECTION IS THE CRESCENDO IN A TRILOGY OF COLLECTIONS INSPIRED BY HIS OEUVRE. WORKING WITH HIM ON THE SET DESIGN AND MUSIC FOR THIS SHOW, WE FIND OURSELVES DRAWN INTO THE HEAD OF THE CREATOR, AND EXPLORE THE VARIOUS BEAUTIFUL, IDIOSYNCRATIC AND ELLIPTICAL CHARACTERS HE DREAMT UP FOR HIS MYRIAD OF WORKS. WE DELVE INTO THE BODY OF PIECES WHICH HAVE PORTRAYED LOVE, REVENGE, THE STRANGE AND MYSTERIOUS WITH EQUAL CANDOR.

“I REALLY LIKED WORKING WITH HUMBERTO, CAROL AND THE PEOPLE AT KENZO. I WANTED TO TRY TO GET A DIFFERENT FEEL FOR A RUNWAY SHOW, HAVING MYSTERY AND EMOTION SWIMMING TOGETHER.”

DAVID LYNCH

"OUR SILHOUETTE HOLDS CONTRASTS IN VOLUME, AND EVERYTHING IS AMPLIFIED. LEAN AND TALL OR HIGH-WAISTED AND EXAGGERATED, THE STRUCTURE REMAINS RESOLUTELY, ULTRA-FEMININE. COLLARS ARE REINTERPRETED, BLOWN UP AND TIED AROUND THE WAIST AS NONCHALANTLY AND INTIMATELY AS THE APPROPRIATION OF A MANS COAT. THE WHOLE WORLD IS WILD AT HEART AND WEIRD ON TOP. TOOL CREATURES, PRINTED AND EMBROIDERED ONTO JACKETS, SKIRTS AND PANTS COME IN WOODS, METALS AND PERSPEX. TAILORED SUITS ARE QUILTED WITH DOWN.

FOX FUR COATS IN “WILD LULA LIME”, “LAURA LILAC” AND “MIDNIGHT DOROTHY” TRANSFORM WITH DETACHABLE PANELING. LACQUERED TWILL JACKETS IN FLAME INJECT FIRE COLORS TO THE PALETTE. SKIRTS AND DRESSES WITH SHAVED KANGAROO ARE PAIRED AND LAYERED WITH CROSS COATS AND EMBROIDERED AND SHREDDED ORGANZA. FOILED MOHAIR GROSGRAIN RIBBONS
APPEAR AS BELTS AND AS INSERTS ON TROUSERS. PRINTS THIS SEASON COME IN WARPED VERSIONS OF HABITUAL VISTAS, THE DAVID LYNCH HERRING-BONE FLOORING AND REFLECTIONS OF A MOUNTAIN IN SHATTERED GLASS. A LAYERED ORGANZA ADDS A 3-D EFFECT TO SKIRTS AND TOPS. SWEATERS FEATURE HIGH DEFINITION TRYPTIC EMBROIDERY AND METALLIC FOILING.

FOR ACCESSORIES WE WERE INSPIRED BY A NORTHWESTERN AMERICAN STEELWORKER’S VESTIARY. SAFETY BOOTS IN PONY AND RUBBERIZED LEATHER FEATURE TRAPEZE BUCKLES IN COPPER OR MATTE METAL. THE KALIFORNIA IS REVISITED AS A TOTE FOR FALL IN KNIT, WOOL OR PRINTED QUILTED NYLON. POCHETTES IN NYLON AND FUR TRIMMINGS WALK ALONGSIDE THOSE INSCRIBED WITH THE TIMELESS “FOREVER, NO?”.

HUMBERTO LEON & CAROL LIM