MARNI
PRE-FALL 2015
Personality, dynamism, eclecticism. Strong women
crossing the globe with ease and independence. The Marni pre-fall 2015
collection is spontaneous and expressive. It mixes the colorful tactility of
Nick Cave's soundsuits with nods to men's tailoring and hints of the 70s,
pragmatism and embellishment, abstract shapes and military felts. The harmonic
juxtaposition of elements is quintessentially Marni.
Precise, softly graphic cuts draw a tall, elongated
silhouette. Lean dresses with mismatched knitted vests are worn under neat
double-breasted peacoats, while scuba jersey is cut into asymmetric shapes that
have the ponderous energy of a Suzan Frecon painting. Envelope belts mark the
waist high, further highlighting the slenderness of the figure. The geometry of
intarsia vinyl leather skirts is vertical and playful, as are the exaggerated
men's cuffs.
Fur recurs as a texture and a tactile diversion: long
vests and collarless coats are made of colorful tufts of alpaca, marmotta
inserts and plastic disc embroideries are applied onto strict tops or felt
skirts, merging decoration, protection and function.
A certain ease characterizes pieces that are combined
with quirk and precision: fluid coats, flares, pure tops. Pragmatic quilting
and military sobriety tone down the exuberance of the short and sharp brocade
dresses, creating a fluid play of opposites.
The color palette is dense and personal: tones of mud,
dark green, blue and charcoal are accented with flashes of deep or bright red,
bright green, electric blue. Fabric are firm, with a tactile hand and a stress
on texture: bonded jersey, three ply wool fresco, felt, double technical wool,
silk crepe, brocade. Prints swing between the precise and the pictorial:
fragmented lines, rhythmic geometries and sequential grids alternate with
pimpernel blooms and hortus motifs.
The architectural line also characterizes accessories.
Boots and ankle-strap shoes have contrast sculptural heels, while felt sandals
are mounted on cut-out wedges. Running shoes are covered in geometric prints.
Bags are small and structured, such as the new box bag with metal sides and the
embroidered clutches, or soft and roomy, such as the intarsia or alpaca shoppers.
Bijou are mobile compositions of geometric shapes, abstract flowers and spheres
made of natural horn and colored resin.