Showing posts with label colors. Show all posts
Showing posts with label colors. Show all posts

Saturday, January 17, 2015

BOGLIOLI


 
FALL - WINTER 2016
 

 
The Boglioli Autumn/Winter 2015/16 Menswear Collection draws on its time honored traditions in tailoring, while further modernizing the silhouette and notable fit of its designs.
 
A new shape is introduced. Deeply tailored in its construction in a smart selection of materials, it achieves a dynamic aesthetic while preserving a completely relaxed feel. The jacket is shorter and the shoulders are precisely scaled, while the front design moves downward harmonically, smartly outlining the chest. A small marvel of construction and fabric, treated with the mindful and elegant craftsmanship of the Boglioli workshops. Trousers feature a higher waist, encompassing the leg just as gracefully as the jacket does the upper body.
 
Shades, colors and details of the collection bring back to light the understated and humbled elegance of the Milanese bourgeoisie of the 60’s and 70’s. A symphony of midtones and delicate pairings feature grays and camels as their mainstays while contrasting with shades of teal and coral. Every look and garment communicates a measured yet strong style; a confidence in men's dressing that needs no effort to express its beauty.
 
Checked fabrics feature new washes, enhancing the pattern, making matters softer and sophisticated. A maxi variation of houndstooth gives strength to the linear coat. Tweed and British traditional wools are taken beyond their traditional bounds with bombers and overalls cut with tailoring know-how.
 
The presentation of the collection is held at the Dimore Studio Gallery, of the famous Milanese design team that brought the modernist tradition of furnishing and architecture towards a new contemporary, ultra sophisticated and effortless goal. A testimony of an elective affinity and a marriage of style belonging to different fields but residing in the same philosophy.
 



 

Friday, January 16, 2015

Marni

MEN’S F/W 2015-2016
 
 
Regeneration. The new Marni collection lands a ponderous gaze on the past, whilst bringing it firmly to the present. The Museo Marino Marini, where the show takes place, is a seamless juxtaposition of existing elements and new architectural interventions, so is the collection. Neat shapes charge up in the choice of tactile materials, in the bold play of colors and textures, suggesting an idea of easy elegance.
 
Fur, knit and sturdy tailoring toy with sophisticated quirks of personality. Zip-up tunic tops layered on printed shirts and skinny sky trousers suggest dynamism. Collarless coats have the ease of a cardigan and the intimacy of a robe, while double-breasted styles have a welcoming roominess.
 
Formality is approached from a slightly off-kilter angle: mismatched checks, broken suits, plain dress shirts paired with knitted ties. Jackets are compact, with a high buttoning, while trousers flare at the hem, or fall straight. The inside of the garments and their details are as studied and surprising as the outside: colorful pocket linings, contrast taping, hidden buttoning.
 
Fur is a strong feature in many ways throughout the collection. Alpaca on outerwear, long sheepskin gilets closed by snaps worn on top of suits, bonded goat cardigan coats, astrakhan and bleached alpaca scarves.
 
Knits are boxy and tactile, with a home-spun quality.
 
The color palette is earthy and deep: tones of brown, blue, grey, black are accented with flashes of red, yellow, flesh. Prints are painterly blossoms. Fabrics are precious and firm, with a stress on textures: twisted flannel, herringbone tweed, linen-wool, double faced angora cashmere, wool gabardine, bonded suede.
 
The progressive tone of the collection carries on in the accessories. Sturdy zip-up boots and derbies have contrast "mended" heels, sliced rubber toe caps give sneakers an old-school feel. Goat fur backpacks and wool apron bags match the looks.
 



 

Sunday, June 23, 2013

I-COWBOY


Costume National Homme SS 2014
Milano, 22/06/2013




HOMME
SUMMER 2014
Ennio Capasa, designer:
“Minimal chic and rocknroll. At the sound of Johnny Cash playing Depeche Mode, my urban I-Cowboy is
walking the streets of the world, the easy and the difficult, the real and the virtual, riding beautiful horses made
of dreams”.
 
I-COWBOY
Fabrics
Traditional and innovation,Sartorial cold wool
Pinstripes and three-dimensional micropatterns,Light wool and natural fibers
Popeline and ramier gabardine,Jersey and Japanese polyester
Matt satin nylon, Drawn polyester linen
Lurex, Leather
Colors
Natural white,Desert
Gold,Mustard
Turquoise,Navy
Black
Outerwear
Traditional tailoring
Innovated by laser cut and termowelding
Double and mono breast blazer
Leather raw edge biker
With twigs and fringes
Gold tuxedo
Shirts
Long sleeves or sleeveless with fringes or metal tip at neck
DevorĨ workmanship, Ultra light
Knitwear
Ultra light crepe with raw edge nappa inserts
Three-dimensional In crepe with lurex stripes
Long tshirts with knitwear details
Trousers
Skinny in leather or fabric
Shoes
Soft and deconstructed in drummed leather, gold laminated
or peel suede, Ankle boots
with leather strap and metal buckle
Low shoes with crossed straps
Closed sandals with leather strap
Bags
In black mouflon or pewter peel, Paired with suede
Zipped cross body with pleated inner
Medium or big Weekend bag with zip and cowhide band
Accessories
Urban cowboy straw hat
plain or with contrasting spreaded stripes
Belts with metal tip,Raw edge crossing
Cowhide leather stripes and metal belt loop
Sunglasses in acetate and metal also with mirrored lens

 








Monday, March 4, 2013

Fendi



Fall Winter 2013-2014
 
Icons unchained
 
A modern translation and celebration of FENDI's DNA: a contemporary re-reading of fur and the new Selleria.
Fur is ubiquitous and is sublimated by innovative craftsmanship and technology.
Sport Couture: FENDIs new perceptions and hierarchy of materials. Double cashmere, silk, precious wools often doubled with neoprene. Many three-dimensional embroidery and trompe l’oeil: the craftsmanship on fabrics and leathers mimics fur and vice versa.
Form and functionality are in a constant dialogue: silhouettes and volumes are neat, anatomic, feminine, rounded, often geometrical, architectural, in one word modern.
Metamorphic minks and foxes play with the animalier FENDI codes, creating a magnified opulence of rare and precious manufacture.
Polychromic pastel tones, intarsia and stripes, versus withes and pure vivid colors.
Ongoing revisit of FENDI’s iconic handbags and the new Selleria that takes its name from the number of  hand-made stitches: Adele 1328, Anna 1322, Peekaboo 1584…
3D fur embroidery, glass tubes and micro-sequins, fringes, braiding.
Ultra-soft Cuoio Romano or sellier leather, mirrored plexiglass, printed pony, inlayed mink, weightless nappa.
Pointed pumps, boots and lace-ups have mirrored and multi-faceted heels.