Marni

MARNI PRE-FALL 2015

 

 

 

Personality, dynamism, eclecticism. Strong women crossing the globe with ease and independence. The Marni pre-fall 2015 collection is spontaneous and expressive. It mixes the colorful tactility of Nick Cave's soundsuits with nods to men's tailoring and hints of the 70s, pragmatism and embellishment, abstract shapes and military felts. The harmonic juxtaposition of elements is quintessentially Marni.

 

Precise, softly graphic cuts draw a tall, elongated silhouette. Lean dresses with mismatched knitted vests are worn under neat double-breasted peacoats, while scuba jersey is cut into asymmetric shapes that have the ponderous energy of a Suzan Frecon painting. Envelope belts mark the waist high, further highlighting the slenderness of the figure. The geometry of intarsia vinyl leather skirts is vertical and playful, as are the exaggerated men's cuffs.

 

Fur recurs as a texture and a tactile diversion: long vests and collarless coats are made of colorful tufts of alpaca, marmotta inserts and plastic disc embroideries are applied onto strict tops or felt skirts, merging decoration, protection and function.

 

 

 

A certain ease characterizes pieces that are combined with quirk and precision: fluid coats, flares, pure tops. Pragmatic quilting and military sobriety tone down the exuberance of the short and sharp brocade dresses, creating a fluid play of opposites.

 

The color palette is dense and personal: tones of mud, dark green, blue and charcoal are accented with flashes of deep or bright red, bright green, electric blue. Fabric are firm, with a tactile hand and a stress on texture: bonded jersey, three ply wool fresco, felt, double technical wool, silk crepe, brocade. Prints swing between the precise and the pictorial: fragmented lines, rhythmic geometries and sequential grids alternate with pimpernel blooms and hortus motifs.

 

The architectural line also characterizes accessories. Boots and ankle-strap shoes have contrast sculptural heels, while felt sandals are mounted on cut-out wedges. Running shoes are covered in geometric prints. Bags are small and structured, such as the new box bag with metal sides and the embroidered clutches, or soft and roomy, such as the intarsia or alpaca shoppers. Bijou are mobile compositions of geometric shapes, abstract flowers and spheres made of natural horn and colored resin.

 



Chloé Resort 2015

Michael Kors Croisière 2015

RESORT 2015 COLLECTION

ROMANTIC SPORTIF...BARDOT MEETS BIRKIN...SOFT FLOWERS, FEMININE EMBROIDERIES AND FLIRTY RUFFLES PLAY OFF OF UTILITARIAN PARKAS, TROUSERS AND TRENCHES...FLUID SKIRTS AND DRESSES BOTH SHORT AND LONG...SHRUNKEN EMPIRE SHAPES...

COZY SWEATERS AND RUSTIC SHEARLINGS JUXTAPOSED WITH LIQUID CHARMEUSE, TRANSLUCENT CHIFFON AND CHANTILLY LACE...

GARDEN TONES OF WISTERIA, OLEANDER, JUNIPER AND LEAF CONTRAST WITH SKY BLUE AND A NEUTRAL BASE OF NUDE, WHITE, BLACK, SAND AND OLIVE...RUGGEDLY ROMANTIC ACCESSORIES...

CRYSTAL AND FLORAL ACCENTS ON ARTISANAL BAGS, SANDALS, CLOGS AND BELTS...RESORT 2015

MARNI EVENING COLLECTION 2015

Indulgent, decadent, hedonistic: freedom and a taste for the surreal. Louche, dreamy atmospheres woven with masculine strictness. The Marni Evening collection conveys a sense of luxurious lightness and instinctive sophistication. Charged with free-spirited nonchalance, outfits are cut-ups of contrasting elements oozing weightless, graphic purity.

 

 

 

The silhouette, elongated and liquid, either bares the legs or touches the floor. The long chiffon dress is worn under a taffetas parka, matching prints highlighting different textures. Over the shoulders of the mannish suit sits, in a spontaneous gesture of surrealist misplacement, the fox and feathers stole. Sport nods such as technical ribbon belts tied around the waist recur. Tunics are sliced on the bias, doubled and layered to create slivers of contrasting colors. Handmade embroideries draw dazzling gardens over neoprene tops and dresses. Bonded raffia defines sculptural shapes, mink is inlaid with strips of Shansi, and a layered ballerina underskirt is worn over a long skirt cut to the hip. The overall effect is extreme yet restrained.

 

 

The color palette is nocturnal: tones of charcoal, black, midnight blue and deep green are sliced by touches of cream and tobacco and unexpected dashes of red. Fabrics are consistent to the touch or impalpable and airy: bonded raffia, silk taffetas, georgette, double chiffon, cady. Mink and persian lamb add texture. Prints draw exotic blooms on nightly backgrounds: Mokara orchids, moonflowers, kapfu plants

 

 

The wildly sophisticated aura continues in the accessories: cut-out leather flowers bloom on flat sandals or on the back of stack-heeled shoes, gold orchids decorate high-heel suede open-toes and thin golden strips close stiletto versions. Small clutches and shoulder bags swarm in precious ton-sur-ton embroideries. Marni's iconic Trunk is presented in black python with a technical ribbon strap. Bijou alternate modernist geometries with decadent flowers used for earrings, wristbands and broaches.

 

The MARNI EVENING COLLECTION 2015 will be in the stores starting from November 2014.

 

AN ESCAPE TO THE MOUNTAINS

CHRISTINE PHUNG AW 14/15

 

"Everyday life diverts us from the important things…" - Charlotte Perriand

 Christine Phung has created a character around which to base her Autumn/Winter 2014-15 collection: that of a girl from a mountain on a dark night, under a canopy of stars. As she weaves through the trees, cloaked in powdery snow, she becomes dazed by her own speed, aware of the elements around her - rock, snow, ice, stars, the forest itself - enveloping her. The lines in the snow cut through the landscape and she is overwhelmed by the sharp contrast of the heat from her own body and the bitter cold that ripples over her skin.
In her delirium she no longer knows if she is falling or flying, whether the slopes are cabin rooves or springboards from which to soar, if the light she sees comes from a fireplace or a blaze glowing from the other side of the mountain. She has lost consciousness, floating in a sweet slumber.

In her search for freedom through this internal reflection, she wears a patchwork of appliquéd cashmere wool, sparkling crystals which mimic the glistening snow, woven jacquard representing the snow-covered mountains combined with feathers and snowflake lace, while pleated dresses digitally printed with wild flames from her imagination.

 

 

AN ESCAPE TO THE MOUNTAINS

« Le quotidien nous éloigne de l'essentiel… » - Charlotte Perriand

 Pour sa collection Automne-Hiver 2014-15, Christine Phung imagine l'histoire d'une femme à la montagne par une nuit noire, sous une voûte étoilée. Elle commence à slalomer entre les sapins, en pleine poudreuse. Grisée par sa propre vitesse, elle a le sentiment que les éléments autour d'elle – les rochers, la neige, la glace, les étoiles, la forêt, les souches d'arbres – l'enveloppent et la portent. Ses traces dans la neige découpent le paysage, son esprit s'enivre du choc entre la chaleur de son corps et le froid métallique qui frôle sa peau.
Elle ne sait plus si elle chute ou s'envole, s'il s'agit d'un tremplin ou du toit d'un chalet, de la lumière d'un feu de cheminée ou d'un incendie sur l'autre versant de la montagne, mais elle a l'étrange impression de perdre conscience, dans une torpeur mêlée de douceur.

Dans sa quête d'introspection et de liberté, elle porte des vêtements en patchworks de laine cachemire façon marqueterie, des cristaux de neige scintillants, des jacquards tissés de montagnes enneigés, des plumes soudées comme des dentelles de flocon de neige et des robes plissées d'un feu de cheminée imprimé sur soie en digital.

 

 

Prada

Prada Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 Campaign

Steven Meisel’s Spring/Summer 2014 campaign for Prada reflects the fierce and independent spirit of the collection. Teams of models hold us in their collective gaze, looking forward in a united vision. Dresses, coats and accessories come alive with giant mural prints of female faces, layering contrasting dimensions of femininity. The walls of the Via Fogazzaro show space in Milan were similarly transformed, emblazoned with ‘In the Art of the Multitude’ – a contemporary muralists’ and illustrators’ vision of female representation, power and multiplicity. Identikit glossy side partings are crowned with feathered headpieces, and sporty tube socks encrusted with candy-like crystals. Handbags are ladylike in the extreme, in glossy crocodile, studs, and saffiano leather. Striped sporty detailing at necklines and busts emphasizes the feeling of team photographs, but then the scale is magnified, the cropped images accentuating detail in the frame. The effect is a surreal wallpaper of textures, colours, and the luxurious detail of the clothing. Glowing with independent truth, a youthful idealism and aggressive optimism unites this modern feminine troupe. The models are Julia Bergshoeff, Dorota Kullova, Ashleigh Good, Gracie Van Gastel, Amanda Murphy, Viktor Van Pelt, Maggie Jablonski, Lieke Van Houten, Maja Salamon, Ola Rudnicka, Sabrina Ioffreda, Magdalena Jasek, Nastya Sten, Cindy Bruna, Anna Ewers, Ophelie Guillermand, Malaike Firth and Lexi Bolling.

A video campaign will premiere soon on www.prada.com

 

 

Campagna Prada Donna Primavera/Estate 2014

 La campagna Primavera/Estate 2014 scattata da Steven Meisel per Prada riflette lo spirito audace e indipendente della collezione. Gruppi di modelle ci rapiscono con il loro sguardo collettivo, mirando l’orizzonte in una visione unitaria. Abiti, cappotti e accessori prendono vita con giganti stampe a graffiti di volti femminili, sovrapponendo dimensioni contrastanti della femminilità. Anche le pareti dello spazio di Via Fogazzaro a Milano, dove si è tenuta la sfilata, sono state trasformate con lo stesso procedimento, rivelando ‘In the Art of the Multitude’, una visione di illustratori e artisti dei graffiti contemporanei della rappresentazione femminile, del potere e della molteplicità. Le acconciature, identiche, prevedono la riga da una parte per chiome lucide adornate da piume, mentre le calze al ginocchio sportive sono tempestate di cristalli che evocano caramelle. Le borse sono estremamente femminili, impreziosite da coccodrillo lucido, borchie e saffiano. Strisce sportive come dettaglio lungo le scollature e il busto sottolineano l’atmosfera da ritratto di squadre studentesche, ma poi la scala viene ingrandita, con le immagini tagliate che accentuano il dettaglio nell’inquadratura. L’effetto è un surreale sfondo di texture, colori e lussuosi dettagli dei capi. L’idealismo della gioventù e un ottimismo aggressivo uniscono questa moderna squadra femminile, che emana in modo radioso il senso dell’indipendenza più genuina. Le modelle ritratte sono Julia Bergshoeff, Dorota Kullova, Ashleigh Good, Gracie Van Gastel, Amanda Murphy, Viktor Van Pelt, Maggie Jablonski, Lieke Van Houten, Maja Salamon, Ola Rudnicka, Sabrina Ioffreda, Magdalena Jasek, Nastya Sten, Cindy Bruna, Anna Ewers, Ophelie Guillermand, Malaike Firth e Lexi Bolling.

 Un video della campagna sarà visibile sul sito www.prada.com