Indulgent,
decadent, hedonistic: freedom and a taste for
the surreal. Louche, dreamy atmospheres woven with masculine strictness. The
Marni Evening collection conveys a sense of luxurious lightness and instinctive
sophistication. Charged with free-spirited nonchalance, outfits are cut-ups of
contrasting elements oozing weightless, graphic purity.
The
silhouette, elongated and liquid, either bares the legs or touches the floor.
The long chiffon dress is worn under a taffetas parka, matching prints
highlighting different textures. Over the shoulders of the mannish suit sits, in a spontaneous gesture of surrealist misplacement, the fox and feathers stole. Sport nods such as technical ribbon belts tied around the waist recur. Tunics are sliced on the bias, doubled and layered
to create slivers of contrasting colors. Handmade embroideries draw dazzling
gardens over neoprene tops and dresses. Bonded
raffia defines sculptural shapes, mink is inlaid with strips of Shansi, and a
layered ballerina underskirt is worn over a long skirt cut to the hip. The
overall effect is extreme yet restrained.
The color palette is
nocturnal: tones of charcoal, black, midnight blue and deep green are sliced by
touches of cream and tobacco and unexpected dashes of red. Fabrics are
consistent to the touch or impalpable and airy: bonded raffia, silk taffetas,
georgette, double chiffon, cady. Mink and persian lamb add texture. Prints draw exotic blooms on nightly backgrounds: Mokara
orchids, moonflowers, kapfu plants
The
wildly sophisticated aura continues in the accessories: cut-out leather flowers
bloom on flat sandals or on the back of stack-heeled shoes, gold orchids decorate high-heel suede
open-toes and thin golden strips close stiletto versions.
Small clutches and shoulder bags swarm in precious ton-sur-ton embroideries.
Marni's iconic Trunk is presented in black python with a technical ribbon
strap. Bijou alternate modernist geometries with decadent flowers
used for earrings, wristbands and broaches.
The MARNI EVENING COLLECTION 2015 will be
in the stores starting from November 2014.
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