Marni

MARNI PRE-FALL 2015

 

 

 

Personality, dynamism, eclecticism. Strong women crossing the globe with ease and independence. The Marni pre-fall 2015 collection is spontaneous and expressive. It mixes the colorful tactility of Nick Cave's soundsuits with nods to men's tailoring and hints of the 70s, pragmatism and embellishment, abstract shapes and military felts. The harmonic juxtaposition of elements is quintessentially Marni.

 

Precise, softly graphic cuts draw a tall, elongated silhouette. Lean dresses with mismatched knitted vests are worn under neat double-breasted peacoats, while scuba jersey is cut into asymmetric shapes that have the ponderous energy of a Suzan Frecon painting. Envelope belts mark the waist high, further highlighting the slenderness of the figure. The geometry of intarsia vinyl leather skirts is vertical and playful, as are the exaggerated men's cuffs.

 

Fur recurs as a texture and a tactile diversion: long vests and collarless coats are made of colorful tufts of alpaca, marmotta inserts and plastic disc embroideries are applied onto strict tops or felt skirts, merging decoration, protection and function.

 

 

 

A certain ease characterizes pieces that are combined with quirk and precision: fluid coats, flares, pure tops. Pragmatic quilting and military sobriety tone down the exuberance of the short and sharp brocade dresses, creating a fluid play of opposites.

 

The color palette is dense and personal: tones of mud, dark green, blue and charcoal are accented with flashes of deep or bright red, bright green, electric blue. Fabric are firm, with a tactile hand and a stress on texture: bonded jersey, three ply wool fresco, felt, double technical wool, silk crepe, brocade. Prints swing between the precise and the pictorial: fragmented lines, rhythmic geometries and sequential grids alternate with pimpernel blooms and hortus motifs.

 

The architectural line also characterizes accessories. Boots and ankle-strap shoes have contrast sculptural heels, while felt sandals are mounted on cut-out wedges. Running shoes are covered in geometric prints. Bags are small and structured, such as the new box bag with metal sides and the embroidered clutches, or soft and roomy, such as the intarsia or alpaca shoppers. Bijou are mobile compositions of geometric shapes, abstract flowers and spheres made of natural horn and colored resin.