Marni

MARNI MEN'S FW 2014-15 COLLECTION

Milano Moda Uomo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A far-ranging foray into masculine iconographies and the way they are expressed through clothes. Elements and obsessions running from sport to classic, workwear to tailoring, utility to luxury, army to office are taken apart, dissected and re-arranged in a mix that is quintessentially Marni: dry yet soulful, precise with a certain carelessness, graphic. The result is a comprehensive wardrobe that covers the needs and demands of daily life using what is known and familiar in an off-kilter kind of way. Cohesion comes through a loose sense of volume, deceptive textures, fur used as an accent.

The pillars of the masculine repertoire are distilled to their essence in a quest for soft classicism that keeps a slightly subcultural tingle: the tailored suit, slim and crisp, halfway between urban staple and work uniform; the crombie coat, seen in a textural vein; the trench coat, reduced to a blueprint; the bomber and the parka, occasionally morphed into one. Function creates forms with a stress on texture: goat fur is used for trousers and shorts worth a polar expedition; parkas are layered and extended; sweatpants with matching crewneck jumpers are actually knitted.

The fur collar recurs throughout, in and out of context, replacing the scarf to provide warmth in a graphic way. Thrown in the mix are elements that alter the whole balance with a tingle of the unexpected: printed silk shirts with matching ties worn under sturdy coats; knitted sleeves. The silhouette is soft yet firm: a vertical line highlighted by natural shoulders, topped with a work cap, with thick-soled shoes as a base.

The classic color palette ranges from charcoal grays to camel, from blue to black to army green. Prints alternate phytomorphic motifs with dynamic grids. Fabrics are dry yet voluptuous to the touch: alpaca/wool blends; double-faced wool knit, light twisted flannel; washed technical polyester.

Lace-up derbies with thick rubber soles, oversize sheepskin totes and postman bags, astrakhan scarves and caps complete the look.

DONNA KARAN NEW YORK

SENSUAL, SOULFUL, SCULPTURAL

You can only be who you are...

"I am a New York woman, embracing the world.

Designing clothes that move day to night,

Monday to Sunday in any city, every culture.

My husband Stephan—his art and soul—is a part of me,

Inspiring and guiding me to sculpt the body with expression.

This collection is the evolution of Seven Easy Pieces,

A system where the body and spirit communicate

The sensuality and power of being a woman,

With multiple passions, constantly on the go.

The foundation is a jersey body—

a mix of matte, shine, sheer and skin— whether a bodysuit,

dress, skirt, jumpsuit, slouch jodphurs or leggings.

Then comes the new architectural elements:

Accessories that create endless possibilities,

to individualize, set the mood. THE CAPE —

liquid or structured—reveals and conceals

as a scarf over dress, jacket, pant or skirt.

THE COWL , CUFFS or VEST—curly or long tipped shearling—

add volume and glamour. Suit up with a bodyjacket

with contrast sculpted sleeves, in stretch corrugated felt,

tweeds, leather and suede; The perfect classic camel

in curvaceous neoprene/cashmere jackets and coats.

Finish with the ultimate topper, graphically pieced together—

a devore haircalf car coat. The curly shearling,

nylon and suede pieces worn separately

or combined into a truly knock–out look.

Everything unites with a textured urban palette—

Essential Black, every shade of Metal, earthy Bark and raw Rust.

Accessories are skin on skin: Sculpted leather body jewelry

sliced with silver or gold in cuffs, collars and belts.

Elbow length suede gloves. Iconic Evolution hosiery.

Pure suede platform shoes or over–the–knee wedge boots.

And a shearling handbag to carry your day.

Evening paints the body with artisan strokes—

From the simplicity of a jersey body that sculpts the form,

To the height of luxury in velvets, satins and sequins,

Each an individual force of artistry and seduction.

These are clothes for women like me—

Who live and work 24/7 with passion and dress with emotion.

I believe the body talks a language all its own.

Depending on your DNA , these clothes say something new

every time And create a statement all your own"

DONNA KARAN